Home Bar Front View
Home Bar Rear View
Your home will become a relaxing center for conversation and entertainment when you build
this classic bar. Your friends will be amazed when you tell them you built it yourself.
This Home Bar is 72 in. long, 42 1/2 in. high, and 24 in. in depth. It features a solid
oak armrest and brass footrail.
The trim in front gives the appearance of a frame and panel design but this design is
much easier to build. The cabinet is made of readily available 3/4 in. oak plywood.
Where edges of the wood are visible, 3/4 in. solid oak wood is used.
At the rear of this beautiful and practical home bar is a long workshelf that provides
pleanty of space for an ice bucket, blender, and other bar items you may need for
mixing drinks. On the left, below the top shelf are a couple of smaller shelves for
storage. In the middle, you'll have two sliding wine racks for storing your wine in
a horizontal position. Also, you'll have three convenient drawers on the right.
Our Home Bar Plans are divided into four sections.
First are the Assembly Instructions. Looking through the assembly process first
will give you a good picture of what is involved in building this project.
The detailed parts drawings are shown next. Here you will have the details for the
parts you need to make.
After the parts drawings, we have drawings that show you how to make the most
efficient use of your wood.
Finally, you can see a list of the parts and hardware needed.
Attach The Drawer Slides To The Gussets
If you will be adding drawers to your bar, attach the drawer slides to the gussets
as shown above. Three must have the roller on the right and three must have the
roller on the left.
The lowest part of the drawer slide must be flush with the bottom of
the gusset. The roller section must protrude past the end of the gussets by 3/4"
(the thickness of the trim).
Attach The Gussets With Drawer Slides To The Panels
Attach three Gussets with Drawer Slides to the Left Side Panel as shown above.
Attach two Gussets with Drawer Slides to Left Divider Panel as shown above.
Note: The bottom gusset and drawer slide for the left divider is not attached
in this step as it will be attached to the bottom with pocket holes later.
It will then provide a way to attach the left divider to the bottom.
Attach The Wine Rack Slides To The Panels
If you will be including wine racks, in your bar, attach the drawer slides to the
divider panels as shown above.
Note: the drawer slides for the wine racks do NOT protrude 3/4" past the edge
of the divider panels.
This is because the wine rack fronts will be flush with the opening while the
drawer fronts will be on the outside of the opening.
Attach The Gussets For The Divider Panels
Attach the Gussets to the top surface of the Bottom Plate as shown.
Pocket hole sides should be placed 16" from the ends of the Bottom Plate with pocket hole
sides facing each other as shown.(These gussets are used for mounting the
vertical panels to the bottom surface.)
Note that the gusset on the left side has a Drawer Slide Mounted to it. This is the bottom
Drawer Slide that was not attached a couple of steps back.
Attach a Gusset to the each end of the bottom surface with pocket hole screws.
These Gusset are flush to the edges of the bottom.
Attach The Divider Panels To The Bottom Plate
Attach the Divider Panels to the gussets as shown.
Attach the Front Gusset between the panels as shown with pocket hole screws.
Attach The Kick Panel
Turn the assembly upside down and attach the Kick Panel with pocket hole screws as shown above.
Note: the pocket hole screws are on the back side of kick panel.
Attach The Side Panels And Shelves
Attach the small shelf to the gussets with finishing nails as shown above.
Attach the side panels to the bottom gussets with 1 1/4" screws as shown above.
Attach The Gussets To The Work Shelf
Now, attach the four Gussets to the bottom side of the
work shelf with pocket hole screws as shown above. The end Gussets have
pocket holes facing out.
The middle Gussets have the pocket holes facing each other.
The pocket hole side of the middle Gussets are placed 16" from the ends of
Attach The Work Shelf To The Sides And Divider Panels
Place the work shelf (with Gussets attached) on top of the vertical dividers and
secure it to the Side Panels and Divider Panels with 1 1/4" screws through the Gussets
as indicated by the red arrows above.
Note that the 3/4" notches go on the back edge or the Work Shelf as indicated by the
green arrow. The purpose of these nothces is to allow space
for the Rear Corner trim.
Attach the upper front Gusset between the Divider Panels with pocket hole screws
as indicated by the green arrows above.
Assemble The Front Panels
Assemble the three front pieces as shown above and secure with pocket hole screws.
These screws will be covered with trim later.
Note: Be sure the front surfaces of each panel are flush with the adjoining panel.
Attach The Front To The Side Panels
Attach the assembled front to the cabinet assembly. Use finishing nails to attach
the front to the sides (these nails will be covered with trim later.)
From the back side, use 1 1/8" screws through the two front Gussets to attach the
front to the bottom and the workshelf.
Attach The Bottom Trim To The Front And Sides
Attach the Bottom Side and Front Trim pieces along the bottom with finishing nails
as indicated by the red arrows in the drawing above.
Attach The Vertical Side And Front Trim
Attach the Vertical Side Trim pieces with finishing nails indicated by the
red arrows in the drawing above.
Attach the Front Fluted Trim pieces with finishing nails indicated by the
blue arrows in the drawing above.
Attach The Top Front And Top Side Trim
Attach the Top Front and Top Side Trim pieces with finishing nails as indicated
by the red arrows in the drawing above.
The top edges of these trim pieces should be 1 1/8" from the top of the cabinet
panels so the Bar Top Assembly can fit over it.
Attach The Decorative Frame Moulding
Attach the Decorative Frame Molding with finishing nails as idicated above by the red
arrows. Position the molding so the frame is centered side to side and slightly
higher than centered top to bottom.
The gap between the top of the frame and the top horizontal trim
should be about 1" more than the gap between the bottom of the frame and the
lower horizontal trim. If you center it top to bottom, it may actually look
like it is too low because of an optical illusion.
Assemble The Rear Trim
Assemble the Rear Trim with pocket hole screws as shown in the drawing above.
Unless you are really confident that everything will fit properly, I recommend
that you assemble the Rear Trim without glue first.
When you are confident that everything is good, you can disassemble it, apply
glue to the mating surfaces, reassemble it, and then attach it to the Home Bar
cabinet in the next step.
Attach The Rear Trim
Install the rear trim pieces with finishing nails as shown in the drawing above.
Attach The Foot Rail Brackets
Attach the Foot Rail Brackets as shown above. Your hardware may be different,
so be sure to take your own measurements. Position one bracket so the foot
sets flat on the floor and measure the distance of the mounting holes from
the floor. This should be about 5 1/2". The rest of the brackets must all be
the same height.
The rear edge of the side brackets should be two inches from the rear vertical
trim. The front brackets should be centered side to side between the trim.
Note the angle of the mounting screws. You can get the correct angle by
trying it on some scrap wood.
Measure The Side Rail Length
Place a piece of tubing in the front supports as shown and measure the
distance "X". (The rear of the cabinet trim to the edge of the tubing.)
This should be about nineteen or twenty inches.
This will be the length of the tubing for the sides.
Measure The Front Rail Length
Insert a piece of tubing in each side support as shown. Have someone help
you hold them so they are parallel to the cabinet and the floor. Measure
the distance "Y".
This is the length of the front tubing.
Assemble The Rails
Assemble the rails as shown above. The end caps go into the rear of
the side rail sections.
I recommend completely assembling the rail with the screws provided in the
kit and tighten all the screws enough so they make visible marks on the
brass rail sections. Then, disassemble the rail and drill 3/16" holes in
the rail where the screw marks are so the screws will all fit flush with
the bracket surfaces, elbow collar surfaces, and at the end caps.
Since the end caps are inserted into the ends of the rail sections, their
screw heads will be on the outside of the rail section.
Assemble The Armrest Moulding
The drawing above shows the way the arm rest is positioned for assembly.
Note: This drawing shows the molding in an upside down position.
You will need to drill pocket holes for each joint. The pictures below should
provide a good idea of drilling the pocket holes and attaching the Soffit to
Armrest Assembly Pictures
You can join the corners with pocket holes as shown in Figure 1. You'll need a
small pocket hole jig for this.
Note: Be sure to place the pocket holes so the screws don’t come through the
top surface of the molding. Shorter screws may be necessary.
Apply glue and secure with pocket hole screws.
You can secure the joints with finishing nails by temporarily securing the
corners using some scrap plywood with pocket hole screws as shown in Figure
2. Drill two pocket holes on each of two sides of the plywood. Glue some
100 grit sandpaper to the surface of the scrap plywood where it contacts
the lip of the molding (This makes it grip tighter.)
Apply glue to the molding joint then secure the molding with the scrap
plywood to hold the joint firmly together.
Turn the assembly over and secure with two finishing nails as shown
(Be sure to pre-drill the nail holes so you don't split the wood).
Countersink the nails so you can fill with putty later. Then you can remove
the scrap plywood. The soffit which will be added later will serve to
re-enforce the corner joints.
Drill The Pocket Holes Tn The Top
The pocket holes along the back and cutout are for mounting the trim. The
ones that are not marked may be placed in approximately the position shown.
Attach The Rear Trim To The Top
Attach the top trim with glue and pocket hole screws as shown above. To
ensure the top surfaces of both the Trim and Top are flush, clamp both
pieces to a flat surface before inserting pocket hole screws.
Clamping The Trim Flush To The Top
The illustration to the left shows how to clamp a piece of trim to plywood.
One clamp holds the trim piece flush to a flat surface and the other clamp
holds the plywood flat to the same surface. In this case, the plywood
represents the bar top.
To keep the pieces flush along the whole piece, you'll want to move the clamps
close to each pocket hole as you insert the screws. This will ensure the trim
is flush with the top surface.
Attach The Risers To The Top
Apply some glue and arrange the risers on the underside of the top as
shown. Attach with either 1 1/8" flathead screws or 1" finishing nails.
Note: Even though 1 1/8" screws won't penetrate the plywood, they may cause
unsightly bumps on the top surface. To avoid this, pre-drill the screw
holes in the plywood with a bit slightly larger than the inner diameter of
the threaded section of the screws.
Armrest Molding, Countertop, Risers And Soffit
The above illustration shows now the armrest molding, countertop, risers
and soffit fit together.
Attach Top To The Armrest
Attach the assembled top to the molding assembly with pocket hole screws
as shown. Do not glue the top to the molding.
Attach The End Soffit Pieces
Attach the End Soffit pieces to the moulding with 1" flat head screws.
Attach the end soffit pieces to the risers with 1 1/8" pan head screws.
Attach The Center Soffit
Attach the Center Soffit to the outside edge of the molding with 1"
pan head screws.
Attach the Center Soffit to the risers with 1 1/8" pan head screws.
This should leave an opening that is 54" between the end pieces of soffit
and 14 3/4" between the center soffit and the rear trim. This is the size
of the outside dimensions of the cabinet top and this opening must fit over
the cabinet top.
Attach The Top To The Cabinet
This drawing shows an upsidedown view of how the cabinet and top are
attached. Use two corner brackets on each end and three in the middle.
You don't want to actually turn the bar upside down to attach the top,
it may damage it.
Spacing of the corner brackets is not critical. The cabinet trim is
not shown for clarity.
Note: You should predrill the bracket screw holes in the top and use
screws that go no more that 1/2" into the wood. Otherwise, the bracket
screws may cause unsightly bumps on the top surface of the Bar Top.
Assemble The Drawers For Your Home Bar
Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes
as shown in the drawing above.
Assemble the front, back, and right side with 1" long finishing nails as
shown in Step 1.
Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2.
Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.
Attach The Drawer Fronts
Support the drawer boxes with 1/2" thick strips of wood and attach the
drawer fronts with 1 1/8" screws as shown in Step 4.
This is necessary because the bottom of the front must be 1/2" below
the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when
Next, attach the drawer slides as shown in Step 5.
Assemble The Wine Racks
Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble your Home Bar Wine
Racks as shown above.
Mount the Front to the Base with pocket hole screws as shown above in Step 1.
The Base and Front are flush on the bottom and the Base is centered between
the edges of the Front.
Two Edge Dividers are mounted flush with sides of the Base ss shown above
in Step 2. The center Divider is centered and the other two are 4 1/2" from the
edge of the Base to the center of the Dividers.
Attach the Back to the Base as shown above in Step 3 with finishing nails
or screws as you prefer. Attach the Drawer Slides as shown with the screws
that were provided with the Drawer Slides.
Congratulations! Your Home Bar Is Complete
This completes the assembly of your Home Bar. Be sure to countersink and fill
all finishing nails holes before applying the finish.
Front Panel Dimensions
Drill pocket holes on the front sides of the center panel as shown above. These
pocket holes are used to attach the three front panels together. The pocket holes
will be covered with the trim later.
Side Panel and Vertical Divider Dimensions
Cut two side panels 14" wide and 41 1/2" high from 3/4 inch oak veneered plywood.
Cut two vertical divider panels 14" wide and 23 1/2" high from the same material.
Work Shelf and Bottom Dimensions
Cut two pieces of 3/4" oak veneered plywood 52 1/2" wide by 14" deep. One is for the
cabinet bottom and the other for the main work shelf.
Kick Panel, Small Shelf, and Gussets
Cut the Kick Panel 52 1/2" long by 5" wide from 3/4" oak plywood. Cut the notch
and drill pocket holes as shown. The location of the pocket holes is not critical.
Cut the small shelves 16" wide by 14" deep from 3/4" oak veneered plywood.
Cut eight 14" long by 2" wide gussets from 3/4" oak veneered plywood and drill pocket
holes as shown above. All eight gussets require three 3/16" diameter
holes for mounting screws. The screw holes need to be countersunk. The pocket
holes should be about 1 1/2" from each end and one in the center. The screw holes
about 1/2" from the pocket holes as pictured.
Cut two 19" long by 2" wide gussets from 3/4" oak veneered plywood. Drill pocket holes
and mounting screw holes as for the 14" gussets. These are for securing the workshelf
and bottom to the cabinet front.
Top And Bottom Trim Dimensions
The Front Top and Bottom Trim pieces are made of solid oak with 45° angles on each end.
Front Fluted Trim Dimensions
For the Front Fluted Trim cut two pieces of 3/4" oak 36" long by 2 1/2" wide.
These pieces will cover the joint and the pocket holes that are used to join the three
front panels together. The flutes are not necessary but if you have a router table,
I think they are worth the extra trouble.
You will need to use your router table and fence to cut the flutes if you have one.
Use a 1/2" core box bit to cut the flutes. The center flutes
should be about 4" from each end and the edge flutes should be about 4 3/4" from each
end. Close up views of the ends show the dimensions for the flutes.I recommend using
some scrap wood to practice making the flutes.
Tip: make pencil marks on your router table fence on each side of the router bit,
one 4" from the center of the bit and the other 4 3/4". Then, you can use these
marks to determine the start and stop point of the workpiece.
Side & Corner Trim Dimensions
For the Wide Corner Trim, you'll need four pieces of 3/4" oak 36" long by 1 1/2" wide.
For the Narrow Corner Trim, you'll need two pieces of 3/4" oak 36" long by 3/4" wide.
For the Top and Bottom Side trim, you'll need four pieces of 3/4" oak 16 1/4" by 2".
One end of the top and bottom trim requires a 45 degree miter cut because it must mate
with the front top and bottom trim.
Decorative Frame Parts Dimensions
Cut two pieces of molding 26" long for the frame top.
Cut two pieces of molding 18" long for the frame sides.
All corners must have 45 degree miters. I made the molding from 3/4" by 1" wide oak
and used a round over bit and ogee bit to give it the shape shown above.
If you don't want to go with the above shape, you could simply round over both sides,
use a beading bit, or any other design you choose.
Rear Trim Dimensions
Please Note! The dimensions given are based on using 3/4" thick plywood. However,
much of the plywood on the market today is actually a metric size and is slightly
less than 3/4" thick. You will need to adjust the dimensions of the rear trim
accordingly if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick.
The top and bottom horizontal trim may need to be slightly longer if your plywood is
less than 3/4" thick. The vertical divider trim needs to be exactly twice the
thickness of the plywood. So, if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick, the width of
these pieces will be a little less than 1 1/2".
The pocket holes pictured on some of the pieces above are optional but you may want
to use them to assemble the trim before attaching it to the cabinet.
Arm Rest Moulding Dimensions
The illustration above shows how to cut the 45° angles with your miter saw. The 1 3/8"
by 3/4" and the 3 5/8" by 3/4" spacer strips hold the molding in the same position it
will be installed on the bar top. This is an easy way to make a compound miter cut.
Bar Top Dimensions
Note: The length and width of the Bar Top depend on the exact inside dimensions of the
assembled armrest molding. I recommend you assemble the armrest molding first, then
measure the inside opening to determine the exact length and width of the Bar Top.
The cuts for the center opening must be perfectly straight and smooth so the trim can
fit flush. I recommend cutting the opening so 1/16" to 1/8" of material still needs
to be removed and using your router to true the edges to the exact dimensions.
Attach Router Guides Strips
Attach three perfectly straight pieces of 3/4" thick wood along the edges of the cutout to
serve as router guides as shown below.
Be sure to attach these strips to the bottom side so you don't
have screw holes showing on the top.
Use a straight router bit with a bearing on the end and a 1" cutting depth. Turn the
workpiece over and carefully run the router along the edge guides with the bit bearing
following the edge guides.
After truing up the edges with your router, the inside corners will need to be carefully
trimed with a file.
Bar Top Rear Trim Dimensions
Countertop trim pieces are all cut from 1 1/2" by 3/4" solid oak.
All the risers are 5/8" thick and 2" wide.
Since armrest dimensions may vary, the lengths given in the drawings above should be
considered guidelines only. Wait until you're ready to assemble the Bar Top before
cutting the risers. Then you can tell exactly how long they need to be.
The soffit pieces are used as trim between the armrest molding and the cabinet panels.
These pieces also serve to support the outer edges of the molding.
The soffit is made from 1/2" plywood.
The dimensions given in the drawings above should be considered guidelines only.
As with the risers, wait until you're ready to assemble the Bar Top before cutting
the soffit. Then you can tell exactly what the dimensions should be.
Drawer Box Sides, Fronts, and Backs Dimensions
The Drawer boxes are made of 1/2" plywood If your plywood is exactly 1/2" thick,
the above dimensions will produce a finished drawer width of 13 1/2". This leaves
1/2" on each side for the drawer slides. If your plywood is not exactly 1/2"
thick, you will need to adjust the length of fronts and backs accordingly so your
finished drawer box width is 13 1/2". The drawer box sides should still be 14".
You'll need to cut a slot just slightly more than 1/4" deep along the the bottom of
each of the drawer box sides, fronts, and backs. This slot should be 3/8" from the
bottom and slightly wider than the thickness of the bottom material.
You will need six Drawer Slide Gussets on which to mount the Drawer Slides. Each
gusset needs three 3/16" holes as shown above.
Drawer Fronts and Bottoms Dimensions
Cut the Drawer Fronts from 3/4" solid oak. You'll probably need to glue up some
narrower pieces for the bottom drawer front. The cutout diagrams show a 6" and
4" section for making the lower Drawer Front.
The fronts will be attached to the boxes and are wider and taller than the boxes
so they will overlap the rear cabinet trim. After cutting the fronts to the
correct dimensions, you'll want to put a decorative edge along the edges with
your router. I used an ogee bit on the prototype but it's all a matter of taste.
You'll need three drawer bottoms. These are all the same size. You can use 1/4" thick
hardboard or 1/4" thick plywood as you prefer.
Wine Racks Parts Dimensions
Cut the wine rack bases 18" wide by 14" deep from 3/4" oak veneered plywood. Drill
three pocket holes along the front edge of the top surface as shown. One in the
center and one on each side about one inch from the edges. You'll need one base
for each wine rack you add to your bar.
Cut the wine rack dividers and sides from 3/4" solid oak as shown above. You'll need
three dividers and two sides per wine rack.
Cut the wine rack backs 18" wide by 1 1/4" high from 3/4" solid oak. You'll need
one back per wine rack
Cut the wine rack fronts 18 3/4" wide by 2 3/4" high from 3/4" solid oak. Cut the
half circle cutouts as shown above.
Home Bar Cutout Suggestions (1)
These layout diagrams show how to cut the parts from two pieces of 3/4" oak plywood.
Note: Since the Center Front Panel and Small Shelf are almost square, they have an
indicator arrow and dimension line to ensure you have the grain oriented properly.
The other parts are more obvious since they are not as close to being square.
You can cut the small shelf a little larger than it's listed size with a jig saw
and true it up with a table saw since it will still have one straight edge
Home Bar Cutout Suggestions (2)
Cutout diagrams for the soffit and drawer box parts from 1/2" oak plywood.
Cutout diagrams for risers are not given as they may be made from scrap wood.
The drawer bottoms are made from 1/4" hardboard.
Home Bar Cutout Suggestions (3)
If you're making two wine racks, you'll still need one more wine rack side and divider.
Hopefully, you'll have some small pieces of oak lying around to make them from. Since
these are inside parts, you could make them from some other material rather than buy
an extra piece of oak. If so, you probably would want to make the rest of the inside
wine rack parts from the same material too.
Tools and Materials Needed
Parts Cutout Drawings
Materials You Will Need For Your Home Bar
Parts You Will Need To Make
Please Note! The dimensions given are based on using 3/4" thick plywood. However, much
of the plywood on the market today is actually a metric size and is slightly less than
3/4" thick. This will not affect most of the dimensions, however, you will need to adjust
the dimensions of the rear trim accordingly if your plywood is less than 3/4" thick.
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